A kissing spot in Finland’s national landscape? Trail network and Kissing Bridge in Punkaharju, Savonlinna
Punkaharju is one of Finland’s 27 designated national landscapes. The area offers accommodation such as a hotel, and Punkaharju is easily accessible by train. The scenic ridge meandering along the shores of the crystal-clear Lake Puruvesi is an excellent hiking destination. It offers several circular trails as well as the more branching Harju Trail Network, whose paths extend here and there. The central spine of the Harju trails provides truly beautiful views of ponds, lakes and forests, and a short detour also takes you to the wooden Kissing Bridge.
- Kissing Bridge on the map
- Length of the Harju Trail: 4 km
- Accessible: partly
- Arrival by car: Several parking areas can be found around the trail network. We started from the Kruunupuisto parking area along Vaahersalontie road.
- Arrival by public transport: From Lusto railway station you can access the Harju Trail Network almost directly. For example, you can also reach Kruunupuisto by bus from Savonlinna.
Punkaharju is literally diverse, so here is a map to start with. The map shows, for example, both Lusto station (“asema“) and Retretti station – both of which are conveniently reached by train. You can simply choose which station is more suitable for starting your hike. Getting to Punkaharju by train is very easy, making it a great choice also for those travelling without a car. We, however, were on a road trip in Eastern Finland and came by car, which we left at the Kruunupuisto parking area shown at the bottom of the map.
The first section of the trail northwards towards our destination, the Kissing Bridge, was accessible. A wide gravel path led through a pine forest and bilberry woods dressed in autumn colours. The atmosphere was somewhat reminiscent of Lapland, and we felt very much at home. The forest viewpoint shown below, with Lake Valkialampi glimmering beneath, marked the end of this accessible route. However, Punkaharju has several wheelchair-friendly trails.
We continued along the non-accessible trail. Sturdy stone steps hidden in the tall forest helped us descend the steepest slope. We paused to listen to a raven, which loudly proclaimed something from the treetops high above. Its call echoed and rang beautifully in the silence of the autumn forest.
A little later we arrived at the isthmus separating Lake Valkialampi from Lake Puruvesi. This too offered a place to sit and rest, but I was more absorbed in admiring the clarity of the waters on both sides. I took a careful mental note of Valkialampi – rich in aquatic plants and wonderfully clear. I promised myself I would bring snorkeling gear here next summer.
Up to this point, the forest trail turned into a lakeside path. The scenery by the lake was truly beautiful, and the path itself delightful to walk. On the opposite side of the water rose the ridge with Punkaharju Ridge Road (“Punkaharjun Harjutie“) running along its spine. The traffic was not disturbing – or perhaps we were simply so happy and content that we didn’t notice it. Only one cyclist rolled past us; otherwise, we encountered no one.
Sheltered by the trees, we crossed a small wooden bridge that normally helps hikers over the stream connecting Lake Valkialampi and Kaarnalahti Bay, which belongs to Lake Puruvesi. Now, however, the streambed was completely dry, and the bridge seemed a rather sad sight. The water level was alarmingly low.
After the bridge, we continued along the shore of Kaarnalahti until we turned to climb the stone steps leading up the slope.
At the top of the stairs, we followed the roadside of Punkaharju Ridge Road for a short stretch until the trail continued on the opposite side towards the Kissing Bridge. The bridge could already be seen behind the trees, so it was easy to find the trail as well.
The bridge was larger and longer than I had imagined – in my mind, a “Kissing Bridge” would have been a somewhat more intimate and sheltered little place! But no matter, it was truly fun to cross. The sturdy wooden structure offered unspoiled views in all directions, and because the water below was quite clear, I also spent a long time peering at the plants on the lakebed and trying to spot fish.
We enjoyed the place in peace for a while. No other people were in sight, though occasionally a car would pass along Punkaharju Ridge Road behind the forest. We did not continue towards Lusto, but instead decided to head back. As the road seemed quiet, we chose to return to the parking area along the roadside verge. This way, we would also see new scenery and at the same time create a kind of circular route.
On the way, we came across Runeberg’s Mound, the highest point of the ridge, rising 25 metres above the lake surface. Johan Ludvig Runeberg was a Finnish poet, teacher, journalist, and priest. He is regarded as the national poet of Finland. You may recognize his name from Runeberg’s tart, one of the most beloved pastries in Finland.
In 1939, a stone was erected on the mound, engraved with lines from Runeberg’s poem Heinäkuun viides päivä (The Fifth of July). Loosely translated into English, the poem would read something like this:
“From this shore a glimpse
of our forefathers’ fair land
you see
young man”
Read next:
Finland has 27 official national landscapes—here they are!
Hike Finlandia: a hike from Finland’s southernmost tip to the Arctic sea. Part 1
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