Tip for Teijo National Park: The Small Ironworks Village of Kirjakkala and the Onnelannummi Trail
In the Teijo area, located in the rural city of Salo, there are several ironworks villages: the parish village of Teijo, the hugely popular tourist destination of Mathildedal, and the slightly lesser-known but equally charming Kirjakkala, which sits by the shores of Lake Hamarijärvi. Kirjakkala, easily accessible from Salo by bus, serves as both the starting and ending point of the Onnelannummi trail that winds through the national park. Be sure to visit the delightful mini-beach and the beautiful buildings of this enchanting ironworks village!
- Destination on a map
- Trail Length: 4.9 km
- Campfire Site: Yes
- Accessible: No
- Public Transport Access: Buses from Salo, bus stop: Kirjakkala (750 m away)
- By Car: Hamarinjärventie 88, Salo
It takes about twenty minutes to drive from Salo to Kirjakkala, and the local bus Paikku number 30 from the Salo bus station doesn’t take much longer. Salo itself is easily accessible by bus or train from both Helsinki and Turku. Kirjakkala, Teijo, and Mathildedal are all located along the same road within about a 10-kilometer stretch, making for a wonderfully rewarding small road trip for ironworks enthusiasts!
From the Kirjakkala bus stop, it’s less than a kilometer along a sandy road to reach the heart of the verdant ironworks village.
The history of the Kirjakkala ironworks dates back to the 17th century. According to the Teijo.fi website, “the Governor of Turku County, Lorenz Creutz the Younger, received permission to establish a bar hammer with a single forge on the lands of the Forss estate in Kirjakkala.” The bar iron produced in Kirjakkala, which was an essential material for the metal products manufactured in Teijo, was forged until 1908. The production included items such as anchors, iron bars, and nails.
Upon arriving in Kirjakkala, travelers may feel as though they’ve stepped into a peaceful, secluded world of its own. Tall deciduous trees rustle in the wind blowing from Lake Hamarijärvi, and the beautiful old buildings stand majestically amidst all the greenery, creating postcard-like scenes together with the natural surroundings. These buildings, though not the original ironworks structures, date back to the 19th century.
A stream meanders through the entire splendid scene, originating from a stony dam opening at the edge of Lake Hamarijärvi with a gushing sound. If I understand correctly, this very dam is the one that was initially used to harness water power during the establishment of the ironworks.
Kirjakkala also offers accommodation options.
Hikers will be interested to know that there is a genuine hiking and cycling route leading to the Kirjakkala ironworks village from the Salo city center area. This trail is just over 20 kilometers long one way. A map of the trail can be found at the designated parking area for national park visitors in the ironworks village.
Behind the dam, you’ll find a lovely golden sandy beach. It is framed by the beautiful green branches of deciduous trees and the leaves of water lilies. As you wade into the water, you can see small fish darting here and there. This simple sandy beach does not have changing rooms or any other specific services for swimmers.
Onnelannummi Trail
The Onnelannummi Trail begins next to the sandy beach and is one of the official trails of Teijo National Park. Highlights of the trail include a high lookout cliff, whose gray rocky face can be seen rising from the forest even from the swimming spot.
The initial part of the trail follows a narrow sandy road, and along the way, there is another sandy beach suitable for swimming. Much of the trail winds through beautiful pine forests, even further away from the shores of Lake Hamarijärvi.
In the middle of the forest, there is a large reservable camping area, where any hiker can fetch water and use the composting toilet. A public, a lot smaller campfire site is located by the lake. It is a simple fire ring without a chimney or roof, so lighting a fire there is prohibited during a forest fire warning.
The Onnelannummi Trail follows a path along the lake shore for a good distance. The views of Lake Hamarijärvi, the forests on the opposite shore, and Nenustansuo bog are mostly very scenic. Only the power lines and the cottages visible near them on the opposite shore reveal that this hike is not in true wilderness. It’s worth mentioning that in late summer, the area under the power lines blooms with a delightful and fragrant heather field!
During our hike, we had a small dog with us. He enjoyed swimming at various spots while on his leash and happily fetched sticks we threw into the water from along the trail. We also spotted a tiny, incredibly cute snake crossing the path!
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