Luxuriate in Gentle Steam Amid Karelia’s Nature: Hugo’s Cottages & Smoke Saunas
In commercial collaboration with Hugon
“How does a weekend sound that combines a smoke sauna, the peace of nature, and a touch of history?” I ask my spouse on Wednesday evening. “There’s a place nearby in Rautjärvi called Hugo’s Cottages & Smoke Saunas, and they have a public sauna on Friday.”
We don’t have to ponder the question for too long: “That sounds really good. Book us sauna spots and a cabin for Friday!”
We have arrived at Hugo’s Cottages and Smoke Saunas (Hugon huvilat ja savusaunat) in Rautjärvi, about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Helsinki. As soon as we arrive in the yard, we are greeted by the friendly dog Hiski, who welcomes us like old friends. A moment later, the host of the place, “Sauna Major” Heikki, appears. His laid-back demeanor and storytelling skills immediately suggest this is a place where it’s easy to linger.
The estate is in a stunning spot on the shore of Lake Rautjärvi near the Eastern border. Although it has only been open for a few years, people have come from farther afield—such as Taiwan, Zimbabwe, and New Zealand—to experience the traditional Finnish sauna here.
Luckily, we also have a cabin booked, so we can calmly explore not just the saunas but also the nearby nature and historical sites.
A smoke sauna is the most traditional type of sauna, and I’ve only experienced it a handful of times myself. Heating a smoke sauna requires time, patience, and skill—perhaps that’s why most Finnish homes have a more modern wood-burning or electric sauna.
The octagonal saunas were built by the host himself, based on a tried-and-tested model developed nearby. Heikki explains that a large amount of wood is burned in the smoke sauna’s stove, filling the entire sauna with smoke. Once the stove reaches the right temperature, the fire is put out and the smoke is allowed to disperse before anyone goes in to enjoy the steam.
“Put that camera away already and come join us on the benches,” the local bathers urge, and we laugh as we obey the relaxed command.
Evening is already falling, so we quickly change into swimsuits back at the cabin and grab enough drinks to make sure we have time to try all three saunas.
Water sizzles on the stones. A gentle warmth slowly fills the space. The atmosphere is very calming and quiet. Typically, there’s always some noise in a sauna, but here there’s no crackle of fire and no hum of electric elements in the stove. A tar-like scent lingers in the air.
One of the best things about public saunas is the conversations, which can cover almost any topic. Right now, we’re talking about icebreaker engines, the effects of winter swimming on sleep quality, and whether sausages are best eaten during a cooling-off break or only after the sauna session is over. However, there’s an old saying that you don’t talk politics in the sauna—though it’s at least partly a joke.
We toss in another good round of steam, and then it’s time to cool off.
We follow the path down to the shore, where a hole has been cut in the ice. At the same time, it starts to snow lightly, and it looks beautiful under the lights by the shore.
After a refreshing dip in the ice hole, we decide to try another sauna—this time a traditional small cabin sauna with a wood-burning stove. It’s very different from the two smoke saunas, but a very pleasant surprise.
After a couple of hours of sauna and swimming, we feel relaxed. It’s a good thing we opted for the “sausages after the sauna” strategy, since the sausages cooked on the stove in foil taste especially good now. It doesn’t take long to fall asleep after that, so we make our way back to the cabin and turn in.
Morning dawns bright. From the cabin’s porch, we can see the full moon lingering on the horizon, still waiting for the sun to rise. We simply have to get dressed and head out for a ski trip on the ice of Lake Rautjärvi.
We sip our morning coffee while admiring the view through the cabin window. Soon, Heikki and Hiski are knocking on the door, as we’ve agreed to explore the nearby historical sites.
First, we take a walk in a nearby forest where moonshine was once secretly brewed to hide it from the authorities. This spot was particularly well-suited for it, as the natural forest offers cover and there’s a large spring by the shore providing clean water.
There are also many war history sites nearby that serve as a reminder of this border region’s past. We wander through the woods, and with a sharp eye, we notice traces of history here and there.
Every stone, mound, hollow, and monument seems to have its own story. Taking in the scenery, you can’t help but pause and imagine what life was like here before our time.
Fortunately, our ancestors’ sauna traditions have remained vibrant into the modern day, and we have the privilege of enjoying them in places like this.
Article by: Jarno Hämäläinen & Elina Kämäräinen
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