Medieval Majesty Meets Natural Beauty: The Vanajavesi lakeside route in Hämeenlinna

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In the landscapes surrounding the medieval Häme Castle, the delightful Vanajavesi lakeside route winds along the shores of Lake Vanajavesi—a must-discover for every visitor to Hämeenlinna city. This 5.7-kilometer (3,5 mi) loop is largely accessible and runs almost the entire way in close proximity to the water, so much so that the majestic castle crowns the view from almost every angle. The route passes through Hämeenlinna’s national urban park and is the perfect walking trail for lovers of beautiful scenery who appreciate lake views, easy terrain, and the opportunity to stop at a café.

Häme Castle on the map
Route length: 5.7 km/3,5 mi
Accessible: mostly
Fire pit: yes
Arrival by car: Address: Kustaa III:n katu 6, Hämeenlinna
Arrival by public transport: It’s a less than 5 min walk from the railway station
Route information: Hameenlinna.fi

Brown and white signposts smoothly guided us into the park-like surroundings of Häme Castle, and the summer sky with its fluffy clouds gave its best as we arrived at the Vanajavesi lakeside route. The castle is an excellent place to stop at least for coffee and perhaps for a guided tour after the walk, but equally great places to leave your car are also the railway station’s parking area and the Pööli parking garage. And of course, you don’t necessarily need a car at all, as it’s only a few minutes’ walk from Hämeenlinna railway station to this loop trail.

We admired the castle’s impressive figure and the surrounding moats, which inevitably brought to mind all the fairy tales set in castle environments with knights and kings. We stopped by the castle’s shop to buy a bottle of raspberry soda before heading to the walking trail, and at the same time, we admired what other interesting items the shop had to offer. We also got a map of Hämeenlinna from there.

The lakeside route, maintained by the city of Hämeenlinna, was found behind the castle by the shore of Lake Vanajavesi, and there was no mistaking it, as the wide and even trail dominated the shoreline, inviting us to walk. The scenery was immediately very impressive: the medieval national castle rose majestically, and the beautifully park-like shoreline did it justice, as did the mirror-like surface of Lake Vanajavesi, which flawlessly reflected the landscape.

You can explore the current exhibitions and events of Häme Castle on the National Museum’s website.

We had studied the map in advance to know which spots along the way were real highlights: Häme Castle, of course, the courtyard of Museo Militaria, the Parkki hill of the City Park with its gazebos, the Fishing Park’s boardwalks and campfire site, and the large Tsar’s poplars, one of which is said to be the tallest of its kind in the entire country. Knowing these attractions, we decided to remember them by heart so we wouldn’t need the map—we would just follow the shore and enjoy carefree, wonderful, and captivating outdoor activities. Sometimes it’s so nice to just walk and admire without glancing at a map! The route is not marked in the terrain either, but by staying as close to the water’s edge as possible, you manage well.

Starting clockwise from the castle, Museo Militaria came immediately along the route. We didn’t stop there this time, but having visited it before, I can wholeheartedly recommend the place. I haven’t seen such an enriching Finnish military history museum elsewhere, and during my previous visit, I spent a whole long afternoon there.

If military history interests you more, in addition to Museo Militaria, you should visit the nearby Parola Armour Museum. However, even when walking along the Vanajavesi lakeside route, there is plenty to see and wonder at in Museo Militaria’s outdoor exhibition area from behind the fence, and the beautifully detailed red-brick buildings add genuine old-time atmosphere to the scenery. Although the site is not specifically marked as an attraction on the lakeside route, it inevitably catches your attention.

After leaving the barracks buildings behind, we arrived at a point with route options. The main lakeside route continued closest to the water, but a narrower path leading up the hill invited us to dive into the City Park, known locally as “Parkki.” A little brisk climb up the hill, and we found a place that my hiking companion immediately declared to be the most beautiful viewpoint in all of Hämeenlinna.

*The lakeside route continues to the right, but we climbed up to the park hill on the left.*

It didn’t take long while ascending the path before the first beautiful gazebo came into view. A woman and a child were having a snack break inside, and we moved just a few steps away to another gazebo that awaited us, inviting and empty.

To reach the gazebo, we walked under the branches of a large spruce. The lowest, long branches of the spruce hung down to the ground, forming a wonderful passage under the tree. There were human-sized openings between the branches, allowing us to pass through without ducking. The spruce was truly impressive, like nature’s own magical gazebo. I wonder how sheltered it is under there in winter?

The third gazebo was different and clearly at the best viewpoint. My companion was bursting with admiration not only for the gazebo and its view but also for the garden with lilacs found on the lower slope and a birch tree, uniquely shaped, spreading its tentacle-like branches by the gazebo’s doorway like the world’s perfect climbing tree.

And that view—oh boy!

Oaks and a whole host of other large trees adorned the slope, behind which Lake Vanajavesi shimmered in the sunshine between rain showers, sparkling like never before. The atmosphere of the park was delightfully overgrown—the kind I greatly love. A glance into history reveals that this park was built partly using prison labor from the castle on the decision of Governor Otto Rehbinder, mainly in the 1850s, before which the place was ominously known as Executioner’s Hill.

Since then, nature and human maintenance efforts to preserve the park’s essence have walked hand in hand to create the current atmosphere and ensemble. As I suspected while walking, the species have been carefully considered, and the park’s purpose has been to delight both locals and tourists. They have succeeded brilliantly!

If climbing uphill doesn’t scare you, I highly recommend detouring from the lakeside route to explore the paths of Parkki. The total length of the park’s pathway network is over 5 kilometers.

Tip: With the Rehbinder’s Walking Tour map, you can explore Parkki and its attractions.

We descended from the scenic gazebo—Hämeenlinna’s most beautiful viewpoint, as my companion decided—back to the lakeshore and continued along the Vanajavesi lakeside route. We soon passed a stone pier, which also dates back to 1864 and was made so that there was even a boat connection from the city to Parkki.

I wasn’t surprised but was greatly delighted when we got to pass by rhododendrons still in full bloom, which rose not only directly along the route but also higher up in the forest hill.

Earlier this spring, we visited Hämeenlinna with this same group when we explored Ahvenisto for the first time. The place surprised us with its magnificence, and now we noticed the same phenomenon repeating here. Hämeenlinna just kept on giving and giving. How on earth have these places remained so secret?

From the opposite shore, we had seen the train pass the city several times by now, and we reminisced about the time we once traveled to Lapland on the night train and saw the Häme castle beautifully illuminated from the train in the evening. Now we arrived at the railway bridge, where we were supposed to cross the water. We found a sign indicating that one could borrow the city’s rowing boat for free from here, but the boat was not home now. So we climbed onto the railway bridge and crossed the water along it, accompanied by the cheerful, summery chirping of barn swallows.

To our left, we saw the Aulanko Spa looming, and I was surprised—is it that close! For those staying at Aulanko, the Vanajavesi lakeside route would be a fantastic walking destination, or conversely, from the lakeside route, it would be quite a short trip to venture into Aulanko Park to explore its wonders.

On the opposite shore, our pace slowed considerably, as the scenery suddenly offered much more. Boardwalks always delight, and this time was no exception, and we enjoyed the feeling as our steps carried us effortlessly along the good wooden path. The section leading to the campfire site was made accessible also for wheelchair users, with edges preventing wheels from slipping off the path.

Additionally, we found a pier that we just had to visit and pause for a moment to look at the water and the scenery, as well as a fine campfire site that was just drying itself after an earlier passing rain shower. Everywhere around, wildflowers were growing, which we identified using the Google Lens app. We found the purple peavine, the common bistort, and the blueweed.

The impressiveness and cleanliness of the campfire site delighted us. From the fire ring, I could smell the soft, sweet, and somehow gently homely scent of cooled embers, which subtly stretched itself throughout the rain-freshened and subsequently sun-warmed olfactory world of the lakeside forest. Firewood was also available, but if you absolutely want to make a fire, it’s best to ensure your plan’s success by bringing your own firewood.

Really fine, downright first-class structures, and no litter anywhere!

The next stretch we got to travel along traditional boardwalks. The sun was now shining directly ahead and made the wetland smell like a jungle, and the outdoor jacket felt way too warm. Häme Castle was now directly visible on the opposite shore, and we anticipated that we would soon arrive at the swimming beach we had spotted earlier from the castle’s shore.

The beach was deserted. The changing cabin awaited visitors, and the water awaited swimmers, but this time no one was splashing around. We didn’t go into the water either, as our plan was to move on to lake Ahvenistonjärvi after this loop—more on that at the end. We passed the beach and noticed how the sky was clouding over again. The thought of a cup of coffee now crossed our minds for the first time, and we began to relish the idea of where we would have our coffee break.

A lone kayaker glided through the national landscape, slicing the water effortlessly like a hot knife through butter. Here and there along the way, we had seen people fishing, cycling, running, walking dogs, and just sitting and chatting. We also spotted a swimmer, not from the sandy beach but from one of the many piers. SUP boards were available for rent along the way from Cafe & Rent Mahlia. The shoreline trail truly seemed to serve a very diverse group of visitors and was indeed an incredibly versatile and history-filled outdoor gem for both leisurely strollers and those who enjoy vigorous exercise.

We arrived at a point that is perhaps the only place where one might get lost on this loop. A barrier blocked our path and directed us to turn into the embrace of the forest on the right, after which there were even more intersections ahead. A quick glance at the map wasn’t a bad idea here, as the shore disappeared from sight, and thus it couldn’t be followed to stay on the right path, as we had done so far.

The rainforest-like greenery enveloped us. We were now approaching one of the sights we had been eagerly anticipating—the Tsar’s poplars!

After passing an Iron Age dwelling site that had turned into a grassy flower meadow and a red-brick chimney building—with its wooden red yard sheds, understood to be an old sawmill—spotting and identifying the giant trees was not difficult. The trees were so large that no photograph could tell the truth; they must be seen by everyone themselves. A truly magnificent attraction along this route! And indeed, all tree lovers in general will be generously indulged by the Vanajavesi lakeside route, so if you or your friends love trees, this is the right route for you.

The rain did start after all, but fortunately, the blue patches in the sky told us it wouldn’t last long. After the poplars, we soon arrived near the city center: we passed the Asemanranta (‘Station Shore‘, very close to the railway station) marina under shelter from the rain and crossed the water via a bridge alongside cars.

At the foot of the bridge, the guest marina with its boat refueling point awaited waterborne arrivals in peace. Beside it, a carefully maintained small park with a fountain practically forced us to walk through it. I noticed that the fountain brought me the same joy and delight I always felt as a child whenever I got to a fountain somewhere.

At the same time, a cruise ship chugged away from the shore, and we wondered what it would be like to participate in such an inland water cruise. Surely not a bad way to enjoy the national landscape of Lake Vanajavesi!

The weather cleared as if by magic, and the rain was now just a damp memory on our jackets and the city surface, which the sun was already evaporating back up into the heights. Mallards preened themselves on the shore rocks as we walked toward Häme Castle and the endpoint of the route. We passed the Aleksis Kivi Park and finalized our plan that post-hike treats would be handled at the café in Häme Castle.

Because let’s be honest: when there’s a café or more along the route, including a coffee break in the loop is pretty much a must.

As we returned to the castle, we found a whole bunch of summer workers diligently tackling the grass. The sheep certainly didn’t seem to be slacking off; the munching and occasional squeaks from tearing grasses with their teeth reached our ears across the moat as the tall growth disappeared into better mouths. And what a landscape they got to be a part of!

*Behind the wall, the Prison Museum peeks out.*

Before heading straight to the café, we also paid attention to the Prison, Finland’s largest prison museum, which rose behind its own fence and was completed in 1871.

You could enter the inner courtyard of Häme Castle without a fee, and from its back corner, we found a lovely little café. There were tables inside too, but we defied the recently wetted outdoor furniture and carried our coffees and muffins outside to the terrace in the lovely summer weather. There we could still admire not only the castle rising beside us but also the beautiful Lake Vanajavesi and note that we had an incredibly fine loop.

Finally: Encountering the pikes of Lake Ahvenisto

Indeed, we visited Ahvenisto earlier this spring. The place impressed us so much that we promised ourselves even then that we would return on this more summery trip. This time I was better prepared: I brought swimwear, a snorkel mask, and an underwater camera. And truly, Ahvenisto met all expectations and exceeded them. The water was as clear almost as in an aquarium, there were plenty of fish, and the underwater scenery was beautiful thanks to the green water lilies. Even for someone snorkeling for the very first time, this would be an amazingly perfect destination with its beach and swimming piers. On the bottom, here and there, rested mussels, and I got to swim for a long time together with a big pike—the largest I’ve ever encountered face-to-face underwater over the years.

Thank you, Hämeenlinna, we will return many times!