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Would you like a cup of campfire coffee? This experience is a must when you’re visiting Finland!

Imagine sitting by a campfire, enjoying the wild silence of the woods around you. You can smell the freshness of the forest as well as the soft smoke coming from the campfire. You feel safe and relaxed. It’s time to have a cup of campfire coffee. Campfire coffee is one of the most Finnish things ever. Everyone must experience it when visiting Finland, no matter if it’s summer or winter.

To make campfire coffee you must have certain type of coffee grounds that are made especially for making coffee over campfire. Every grocery store usually has this “pannu” or kettle coffee from at least one brand.

You also need fresh water and a metallic coffee kettle that has no plastic parts. To enjoy your campfire coffee in the most Finnish way, also make sure you have a traditional wooden cup or kuksa with you (read more here). A Moomin cup is also acceptable.

Then you must make a fire. In Finland there are lots of maintained campfire spots, and one must not make fire elsewhere without the permission of the landowner. In national parks such as Nuuksio or Sipoonkorpi (both right next to Helsinki) there are dozens of good campfire spots with ready-to-use firewood. Be economical with the firewood – there’s no need to make a huge campfire for preparing campfire coffee.

When the campfire is ready, it’s time to begin. This is how you do it:

Measure one litre of freshwater into your coffee kettle.

Place the kettle above the campfire and wait for the water to boil.

When the water is boiling, take the coffee kettle away from the fire and measure two decilitres of coffee grounds into the kettle.

Then just wait for about ten minutes – the campfire coffee is now preparing itself. You can place the kettle next to the campfire so that it stays hot. Some people add a small amount of cold water into the kettle at this point, believing that the coffee gets ready a bit sooner. Whether this is true or not, who knows – every Finnish hiker has their own style of preparing campfire coffee.

The coffee is ready when all the coffee grounds have sank to the bottom of the kettle. You can test this by pouring a little coffee into your cup and see if there are any coffee gounds coming out. If there are some, put the coffee back to the kettle and wait for a little longer. If not, the coffee is ready to drink!

No coffee grounds coming out – this coffee is ready
Enjoy!

Does this all sound like a whole lot of effort? No worries! We can prepare some delicious campfire coffee for you and your friends. And to make things even better, we’ll also make some campfire pancakes and teach you guys how it’s done!

Torvisen maja – sanctuary for tired skiers in Luosto since 1957

On the north side of Luosto fell there is the cutest little coffee house, Torvisen maja. I highly recommend visiting the cafe, not only for its delicious freshly baked doughnuts and pies but also for the incredible atmosphere, oozing authenticity and olden days. 

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You can reach Torvisen maja by car, skis, bike, feet, you choose.

How to get there?

I ended up visiting Torvisen maja as a pit stop on my skiing trip in December. The cross-country skiing tracks around Luosto are fabulous and versatile, by the way. Luosto fell is part of Pyhä-Luosto National Park in eastern Lapland. If travelling from abroad, the nearest airport is Rovaniemi. There are busses from Rovaniemi, as well as from other directions. As for me, I left my cabin with skis 6 km away, skied pass Luosto “centre” and towards the north side of the largest fell. There, you cannot miss the place.

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The heart of the cafe is the fireplace. Maria, the hostess, says people love to watch the fire for ages.

Resting haven for 60 years

At doorstep you already start feeling it. The warmth of the fireplace and dim light of candles embrace you. There are colourful rugs as tablecloths and traditional decorations from the olden days. This cafe has served tired and hungry skiers and wanderers since 1957!

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This is the very first guest book from 1957. A freely translated quote from a guest: “Possibly this hut brings people one step closer to nature, of which we have become estranged with.” That was 60 years ago, what about now?

Torvisen maja was founded by Torvinen village association as a wilderness hostel. One could stop here on a hiking or skiing trip and get a cosy sleeping space from upstairs, for a small fee. During the decades the cottage has served also as an open wilderness hut, and for the past 30 years actively as a cafe.

And imagine, there is still no electricity nor running water. But just that is a big part of the charm.

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Exceptional atmosphere and versatile menu

Today the cafe keepers are Maria Heikkilä and Toni Vaarala. They are very open and welcoming to all visitors from near and far, they chat with customers and tell stories about the cottage’s past. Meanwhile there is a fresh pot of coffee brewing and dough waiting to be turned into doughnut, or “munkki” as we say, on gas stove. Positive feedback from customers has been nearly overwhelming (we Finns do not accept compliments easily).

Indeed, a senior skier sipping coffee in the next table states Torvisen maja is the most atmospheric cafe he has ever visited, and he has been to many.

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Decorations are old and traditional. I love the rugs as tablecloths.

Maria and Toni emphasise they have a menu that is different every day but always contains fresh and home made goods.

I had a hard time deciding on my order as this was the Menu du Jour:

– reindeer-lingonberry pie

– lingonberry-fudge pie

– warm doughnuts, “munkki”

– pancakes (savoury and sweet)

– salmon sandwich

– tasting plate including reindeer salami, bear paté, reindeer liver, salmon and whitefish roe

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In the end I had to go with traditional munkki and coffee, and boy was it delicious! I could ski here every day just for the munkki.

Torvisen maja is open from Autumn until late spring, however long there is snow to be skied. The busiest time for the cafe is from February skiing holidays onwards until Easter.

Torvisen maja on the map