Arpainen Hiking Trail

A friend invited me on a winter trek for Valentine’s Day weekend. Since she didn’t have much experience with winter camping yet, she was looking for a more seasoned companion to join her. I loved the idea immediately—of course we’re going!

Article by Jonna Viitaniemi

The forecast for the weekend promised biting cold, with temperatures as low as −28°C on Friday. Originally, I had been looking at lean-to sites around Torronsuo National Park or elsewhere near Uusimaa, but my friend suggested staying in a hut due to the freezing conditions. Since open wilderness huts are few and far between in Southern Finland, we turned our gaze further afield toward South Ostrobothnia. Located on the border of Soini and Ähtäri, along the Arpainen outdoor hiking trail, the Arpaiskämppä hut seemed like the perfect destination.

The Arpainen Outdoor and Hiking Trail

Linear trail: 50 km (one way)
Two lean-tos, an open wilderness hut, a wilderness sauna, tent sites, and campfire spots
Arpaiskämppä on the map
More info on the route and map

The Journey Begins Under the Northern Lights

We packed everything we needed into the car: two pairs of sliding snowshoes with poles, a sled, stoves, camping meals, and, of course, plenty of treats. We prepared for the cold thoroughly: two sleeping bags per person, air mattresses, closed-cell foam mats, and very thick layers of clothing. I also brought a deer hide for extra insulation.

On Friday after work, we headed north. During the drive, I asked my friend if she had ever seen the Northern Lights. When she said no, I pulled over at a bus stop. There, she saw the first Aurora Borealis of her life, glowing green across the horizon.

We didn’t reach the Arpaiskämppä parking lot until around midnight. The road was unplowed and covered in deep snow, so four-wheel drive was essential—I wouldn’t have even attempted it in my own car. We just hoped no one was already sleeping in the hut so we wouldn’t disturb anyone with our clatter. Luckily, the hut was empty.

We went to bed almost immediately and slept long and soundly. The cold seemed to only improve our sleep; we were wrapped in so many layers that only our mouths were visible from the depths of the sleeping bags.

A Day Trip to the Saarilampi Lean-to

Saarilampi lean-to on the map

On Saturday, we woke up slowly. The hut had a fireplace, but since it wasn’t a heat-retaining masonry heater and there was a significant draft from the door gaps, there was no point in even trying to keep the cabin warm.

We brewed coffee and enjoyed a peaceful breakfast. The beautiful setting of Arpaiskämppä made an impression: the hut, the woodshed, the outhouse, as well as the lean-to and even the wilderness sauna, were clean and well-maintained. There was also a campfire spot in the yard.

Our original plan was to ski about twenty kilometers toward Ähtäri on Saturday. We were going to take a food break at the Saarinen lean-to, continue to the Ohrakoski hut for the next night, and return the same way on Sunday. However, the Arpaiskämppä area was so cozy that we decided to change our plans: we would stay at Arpainen for a second night.

Instead, we took a lighter day trip to the north on Saturday. We skied in the beautiful winter light along a stunning ridge to the Saarilampi lean-to, which was about five kilometers away. Along the way, we admired the lake views and the cottages on the shores—a perfect place for a vacation. The Saarilampi lean-to had plenty of firewood and the site was clean and well-kept.

Sauna Time and the Hooting of an Owl

We returned to the hut in pitch darkness by the light of our headlamps. The highlight of the evening was heating up the wilderness sauna. The sauna was completely frozen, so it took some time to warm up, but eventually, we got to enjoy fantastic steam. It was wonderful to go to sleep warm while an owl hooted somewhere near the hut.

On Sunday, we took the morning just as slowly as the day before. We split some wood and left the hut in good condition for the next visitors. Simply “being” without modern amenities is a trip in itself, so we didn’t head out into the terrain anymore on Sunday.

Back at the parking lot, we met another group who asked about the ice conditions on the river and the possibility of seeing a white-throated dipper. Since the river was completely frozen, we didn’t think the bird would be happy there, but at least the path was now open thanks to our tracks. By early evening, we were back in Uusimaa, tired but happy. I definitely need to come back and see these landscapes again in the summer.