Summer at Kemijärvi on horseback & SUP-boarding on the superb Kalkonniemi beach

In paid collaboration with Kestävästi kasvua kesään Itä-Lapissa -project

The serene nature-filled experiences of our Eastern Lapland trip continued where the trip had begun – we were now headed to the abundant lakes and forests of Kemijärvi! A few days ago, we had arrived here by train from Helsinki. Now, we had the chance to relax properly in Kemijärvi. Our program for today was designed to ease us into the peaceful atmosphere, starting with a horse riding trip on a Finnhorse, continuing with SUP-boarding at sunset, and ending with a dip in Kemijärvi lake from the scenic pier behind our accommodation.

On our way from Pyhätunturi towards Kemijärvi centre, a large and visible sign guided us to the yard of Outinen riding centre. At the stable, a happy herd of horses and their equally happy caretaker greeted us. Our group’s four-legged leader, named Huttu-Ukko a.k.a. Huttis, was already set to go. Soon joining him from their stalls were Särkiä and Helmi, as well as Helmi’s four-month-old foal Rallipertti, who charmed us instantly.  

Our guide Riia told us about Finnhorses and the stable’s operations while we fitted helmets on and got to know our horses (and vice versa). After that it was time for everyone to move out into the sunlight and go for a few practice rounds in the stable’s outdoor arena. 

At Outinen riding centre, you can go horseback riding without any previous experience. I was glad since I’m an absolute beginner. Riia recommended always calling latest the day before you want to come riding, rather than showing up at the yard. This way, availability is much more likely to be guaranteed! 

I’ve probably gotten on a horse a total of five times in my life, and the only thing I clearly remembered was that getting off the horse felt much more intimidating than getting on. Even for a relatively short-legged person like myself, getting on felt relatively easy with the guide’s instructions after the initial apprehension about being able to jump so high up in the air. Easiest is to bravely take the guide’s advice and simply hop up there!

I was partnered with Helmi while Karo got Särkiä, and Riia led the group with Huttis. Rallipertti would roam free with us in nature on his own terms. We got on our horses, and with Riia’s help I reminded myself of the basics, such as moving forward, using the reins correctly, stopping, etc. – it’s all actually quite simple, and as you can expect, stable horses are gentle. Helmi was the perfect horse for me: extremely calm, without any rush to get anywhere. Personally, I don’t like speed at all, so Helmi and I got along wonderfully. 

Me & Helmi
Riia checking that Karo & Särkiä are set to go.

After doing a few practice rounds in the arena, it was time to head out into nature. We followed a grass-covered forest road into the depths of Kemijärvi’s summer-bathed nature. We got the best of Lapland’s late summer, enjoying the warmth and lack of bugs. 

The horses didn’t even stir when a dog barked from the yard of a nearby house, only exciting Rallipertti a little. He took to the safety of trustworthy old Huttu-Ukko, sticking to his side for a while. Otherwise Rallipertti was overjoyed with life and the summer air, frolicking here and there, stopping when he felt like it to snack for a moment, and then prancing around between us. Occasionally the foal would march ahead leading the herd, then get distracted by something for a bit before bolting forward enthusiastically to catch up to us again. I rode Helmi, Rallipertti’s mother, so I was honoured to have the foal follow me quite closely many times. As the trip progressed, he sniffed the back of my thigh, which felt like a warm tickle on my skin. 

We broke off the trail and crossed a ditch to a nearby meadow, where the horses had a proper chance to graze while we enjoyed Lapland’s summer and the warm day, listening to Riia’s stories about the horses. 

In the middle Riia & Huttu-Ukko, on the right Karo & Särkiä, in the foreground Rallipertti.

During the trip, Rallipertti wanted to stop for his own snack breaks, drinking his mother’s milk in peace for a moment. It felt moving to be able to follow the large animal’s care procedures so close up. 

The round in the forest took around one hour, including breaks. Horse-riding feels a bit daunting to me as an idea, but it’s a relief to see that the horse is a fairly reliable creature. It generally knows how to use its feet, look ahead, and analyse situations. For this reason, we didn’t have to worry too much about things like crossing the ditch, even though I felt it a little in the pit of my stomach. I remember vividly how much I used to worry about crossing a ditch with a snowmobile – with a horse the same situation feels completely different and alleviating, since I don’t have to have much skill myself. 

As we returned to the stable, we had the honour to meet one last furry friend – the wonderful Rölli cat, who came to ask for cuddles and scratches without hesitating. And of course we did!

After the horse-riding adventure, the rest of the evening’s schedule was on our own terms. Visit Suomu had SUP boards waiting for us to enjoy the evening in Kemijärvi. The company can transport rental SUP boards anywhere in the Kemijärvi area, but because we hadn’t decided where we wanted to go paddling, we asked for them to be delivered to our lodging at Hotel Uitonniemi. And that’s where they were waiting!

As evening set, we decided to head out to Kalkonniemi. It was only around a 15-minute drive from the hotel and is generally a popular spot that I had seen lots of photos of over the years. I often lamented not having gone to Kalkonniemi, and now I had the chance!

Kalkonniemi’s stunning beach

We drove past scenic landscapes to our destination, and the evening sun already streaked the western sky with red. Kemijärvi has an abundance of lakes and lakefront roads. Even the city centre is literally surrounded by a lake in an unreal location, so you can admire the blue landscapes in every direction. The vast lake reaches as far as the eye can see! Hills far in the distance surround the water. 

We took in the magnificent views along the road to Kalkonniemi, including many quaint buildings, blue-green hills, and lakes. On arrival, we found a parking lot and first-class facilities: a cooking shelter, changing rooms, outhouse, and woodshed. 

We weren’t sure if the noise coming from the electricity line next to us was continuous or normal – we tried to shut it out of our mind. Kalkonniemi Beach was such a sight that we instantly forgot it and any other distractions!

I can only imagine how much of a paradise this place is for swimmers throughout summer. Now the beach was empty, and the cleanliness of the area amazed us. There were enough human and canine tracks that I imagined it was probably a favoured outdoor recreation area among the locals. And why wouldn’t it be, in all its splendor! 

Kalkonniemi flows into the western side of Kemijärvi. The northern point of Kalkonniemi is delightfully calm, while strong gusts blew on the southern end. Karo, who is a skilled paddler, decided to try both worlds. The lake provided a complete SUP-boarding experience, from a smooth, slow ride on one end to battling with the wind in a test of skill on the other. A buoyancy vest was a crucial piece of equipment for this sport. 

View to the north
View to the South

Resting on the beach, we watched the sunset and looked out into the open space. Karo had snacks with her as always, and I couldn’t have been happier snacking while sitting on the SUP-board, admiring the scenery.

As night descended upon us, we drove back to Hotel Uitonniemi. The hotel is right in the centre of Kemijärvi and next to the train station, but is still in a peaceful spot that gives the impression of being in the countryside. The hotel’s beautiful red main building hosts the reception and breakfast spaces, while the rooms are located on the other side of the yard, in a two-story log building. Our cosy room included a kitchenette and private restroom with shower. 

Before going to bed, we wanted to check out the lakefront sauna behind the main building. A quick dip in the lake from the sauna’s dock was the perfect end to the day!

The last thing in the evening, we went over the experiences gained during the trip, realising that tomorrow would be the last day of our round of Eastern Lapland. Our last day would be spent in the nature of Riisitunturi national park, Posio – the story will be published next week!

Translation by Karolina Salin

Check out all the posts from this series:

Part 1: Reach the wilderness overnight by train – paddle at sunset in Salla

Part 2: The fog lifted and revealed the first colours of ’ruska’ – our hike to “Kivitunturi” in Savukoski with Alit the Husky

Part 3: Climbing up Pyhäkuru rock formations & cycling with e-fatbikes to the eternally beautiful Tunturiaapa mire in Pyhä

Part 4: Summer at Kemijärvi on horseback & SUP-boarding on the superb Kalkonniemi beach

Part 5: The outskirts of Riisitunturi National Park – a journey through Posio’s untouched wilderness

See also

Outinen Riding Centre

Visit Suomu

Hotel Uitonniemi

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