Is this the most beautiful ski track in Savo? Lintharju esker, Suonenjoki

If one Finnish winter condition had to be elevated above the rest, it would be the clear, bright sunshine that makes the crystallized frost snow sparkle on the slopes. No matter how cold, such weather simply makes it impossible to stay indoors. One of Finland’s most spectacular skiing destinations, and possibly the country’s most beautiful track, can be found on an esker named Lintharju in Suonenjoki, North Savo, not far from Kuopio.

17–20 km (shorter loops 1, 3, 5, and 10 km)
Intermediate
4 lean-tos, ski cafe on weekends during the ski season
Starting points on the map: Ice Hall and Onkilampi

To the left (south) from the starting point, the so-called upper parking lot, starts a significantly easier two-way track section in terms of elevation differences. To the right (north), on the other hand, starts a section with more elevation changes.

The initial stretch starting near the Suonenjoki Ice Hall is at least for all locals the most familiar part. Its tracks are illuminated, and there are options for three, five, and ten-kilometer loops.

At this point, the landscape is still managed commercial forest, considering recreational values. While skiing, the focus is on the track, and the rich terrain contours it follows keep the overall experience pleasant.

Approaching the Onkilampi leisure center, the landscape changes significantly. At Palolampi, the slopes of the esker rise higher and steeper, covered by an older pine forest, and right at the top runs the two-way track we were now skiing on. Around here, the second half of the ten-kilometer loop, previously mentioned as the more challenging track, also joins it.

This is also where the most beautiful part of the track network begins. The encounter with Palolampi could still be considered just the prelude. From there onwards, the track beautifully winds along the crest of the esker, rising and falling. It’s bordered by a lovely wooden fence. The joy of speeding along a well-maintained track in such scenery and weather is immense.

The track continuing west from Onkilampi is the most beautiful part of the entire network, and the further you go, the more natural the forest becomes. This section of the track is not illuminated, and light poles would not fit the atmosphere anyway. At some point, the conservation area briefly ends. One side of the slope is more open, and the view opens up magnificently to the north. That’s when you realize how high up in the terrain you actually are.

We continued our journey. The longest route from Suonenjoki to Saunaniemi is just over ten kilometers each way. We chose a slightly shorter route that turns at the Kukkura lean-to.

Occasionally, trees decorated with frost forced us to stop and admire. But there was no rush.

At Kukkura lean-to, we took a short break. We had covered 8.5 kilometers. As I was digging out snacks with my glasses fogged up, I heard another skier approaching. A familiar voice asked if it was the Huttunen boys. We admitted it was. After some digging into memories, I realized it was my elementary school English teacher. We exchanged a few words before continuing our journey.

For the return route, we planned the same path, but near Onkilampi, we took a small detour and descended from the esker to the Onkilampi leisure center’s ski lodge, where the local outdoor association Suonenjoen Latu runs a ski café on weekends. This descent also recorded the fastest speed of our trip on the GPS. At the lodge, we exchanged a few words with some people we met. A cup of hot drink and a glass of water at the lodge refreshed us nicely before the final push back to Suonenjoki.

If you specifically want to ski the best parts of the tracks, assuming the snow conditions allow it, then Onkilampi is the place to go, where you can park your car. Near it is an illuminated three-kilometer route and also a dog track, where – unlike regular tracks – skiers are allowed to bring a dog for company!

Beautiful tracks can be found elsewhere too, but there’s something about Lintharju that particularly appeals to me. When this beauty combines with a varied and fun track profile, it’s a must to name this as my current favorite among the tracks in North Savo.