Saana – A Smoke Sauna and Spa Experience on the Shores of Lake Kallavesi
In the summer of 2019, a tourism center called Saana was opened in the heart of Savo region, on the shores of Lake Kallavesi. At its heart are a spa and a sauna – or actually two saunas. One inside and another, the crown jewel of the place, a smoke sauna found outside, which has also been selected as Finland’s sauna of the year. We decided to test if it lives up to its reputation!
The entrance process goes smoothly. The service is friendly, and we receive instructions on how to proceed. Without further ado, we move from the lobby to the changing rooms. There are separate ones for men and women. The changing rooms themselves are somewhat small considering the size of the facility, but since there’s no crowd, undressing goes quickly, and we head to the shower, put on our swimsuits, and step into the spa area.
First, we take a moment to get acquainted with the jacuzzi found inside the spa and observe what the atmosphere is like outside. The bubbles are perfect for initial relaxation, and after that, it’s time to get to the main event – sauna bathing.
Outside, there’s a wood-heated smoke sauna that’s said to offer a traditional sauna experience and excellent steam. Let’s see if it lives up to that promise!
The smoke sauna’s appearance differs from what one might expect from a traditional Finnish smoke sauna. While it is indeed dark both inside and out, its facade is executed in modern Scandinavian design style. Upon entering, a massive stove remains on the right, and long stairs are found on the front left, leading up to the benches. When entering the sauna, you press a button that opens a heat-saving lid above the stove.
At the top of the stairs, on the bench platform, awaits a surprise: The steam isn’t thrown directly onto the stove; instead, water is poured into a funnel from which it drips in small drops onto the stove. The instructions indeed say that in this smoke sauna, you don’t throw the steam – you make it. And the stove does make excellent steam. Although the sauna is warm, the steam is soothingly soft, not at all whippingly sharp, just as it should be in a smoke sauna. An absolutely perfect experience, worthy of its reputation.
After the sauna, we head outside and decide to swim in the lake. Although August is well advanced, the lake water has warmed back up to 20 degrees Celsius due to the warm late summer. Steps lead to the water, which are easy to walk down, and when they end, the water is deep enough that feet don’t touch the bottom. How good the cool water feels! The feeling is downright euphoric. An unexpected added fun comes from the wake waves of passing boats. Swaying in them is entertaining! We swim until we start feeling a bit cool and head inside.
After the shower, it’s time to test Saana’s other sauna, a 30-person mixed sauna found inside, featuring large landscape windows overlooking Lake Kallavesi. There are a handful of people on the benches. Here, steam is thrown in the traditional way. The indoor sauna also offers very decent steam. While enjoying it, you can gaze into the distance in a slightly more modern Finnish way, as this sauna includes indoor music.
After the sauna, it’s time for two warm outdoor pools. Both are made of stainless steel, which is indeed an insightful choice for heating the pools, as they are in use year-round. The smaller one is perfect for relaxed sitting. I can imagine how good the warm water must feel on a cold winter day. Exotic experiences that only the north can offer!
Of the outdoor pools, the larger one is an infinity pool with a lake view. Its water is slightly cooler than the other pool but pleasantly warm. The pool is large enough to do a few swimming strokes and then settle back against its edge to admire the scenery.
Inside, there’s also a cold pool where the water temperature is between +4 and +8 degrees Celsius, but this time we skip trying it, even though we know the wellness and health benefits of ice swimming.
For the next hour and a half, we repeat the same meditative ritual: sauna, swimming, cooling off in a terrace chair, and then again. The euphoria grows with each round.
Finally, our time is up. We take a final sauna, shower, get dressed, and start planning where to go for dinner. We can give Saana an excellent grade; the place truly lived up to its reputation. The only minuses are the somewhat cramped changing rooms and the surrounding area in a developing district whose aesthetics haven’t yet reached their full bloom, but on the other hand, you only see this upon arrival. In the spa itself, the idyllic lake view takes center stage.
In addition to what we tested, Saana also has VIP-Saana, which is a reservable sauna suitable for meetings, team days, sauna evenings, bachelor/bachelorette parties, or client events, which also includes a lounge, sauna cabinet, and jacuzzi.
During the busiest times, it’s worth buying a ticket to Saana in advance. The sauna and spa section has dynamic pricing, and at the time of writing, prices start from 11 euros. It’s also worth noting that the spa section is only for those over 18 years of age every day from 6 PM onwards, so the last possible sauna session for minors is from 4-6 PM.
For more information and reservations, visit Saana’s website kuopionsaana.fi.
Address: Kuopion Saana | Siikaranta 12, 70100 KUOPIO
Images: Kuopion Saana
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