The Mysterious Stone Cairn of Koivumäki, Salo
In the village of Muurla in Salo, there’s a short path leading up a wooded hill, at the top of which a stone ancient burial cairn spreads out in a ring shape in a beautiful spot. The grave doesn’t offer views into the distance, but together with the surrounding trees, the path, and the undergrowth, it forms a lovely hidden spot where it’s nice to stop and reflect on things like the passage of time, our distant ancestors, and our own place on humanity’s timeline.
- Starting point on the map
- Trail: 250 m/direction
- Campfire site: no
- Accessible: no
- Getting there by car: Viljo Hurmeentie 1, Salo
- Getting there by public transport: The “Taidetalo” stop on the local bus line to Muurla is located 250 m from the start of the path.
When we arrived at the right address, we noticed that artist Viljo Hurme’s studio home was directly on the other side of the road. We were also standing at the spot where the Muurlanjoki (Karhujoki) river originates from Lake Ylisjärvi and begins its flow toward the sea. The studio home is indeed on the lakeshore, with the lake glimpsed behind it.
We visited in midsummer and were the only ones on the path at that moment. The path stood out clearly from the terrain, though, so it hasn’t been forgotten. Small posts set into the ground also guide the way, but the path didn’t seem to have any branches splitting off from it, so it’s easy enough to follow regardless. At one point the path skirts the edge of a private home’s yard, so it’s worth staying carefully on the trail there.
Right at the start there are steps, after which the forest path begins.
The path has a fair number of rocks and roots. Although the route is short, it’s also relatively steep.
I admired the post-rain lushness and scent of the mixed forest around us. Muurla is otherwise a peaceful little village too, and just a few steps into the forest we found ourselves in complete natural stillness.
Fairly close to the ancient grave, I noticed this striking combination of a pine tree and a boulder. The pine had grown its trunk flat against the rock.
Soon we had arrived. I was captivated by the oak growing beside the burial cairn, spreading its protective branches above us.
The oak also made the already beautiful scenery around the burial cairn even more picturesque, and somehow more mysterious. It brought to mind the tree of life to me, even though it was still a young specimen as oaks go. Having just finished watching every season of Outlander, I felt almost romantic vibes of bygone eras in this place.
The ancient grave formed a large, doughnut-shaped ring, a “crown,” (kruunu) as they call it around here. Although the information sign suggested that it may have gained its current shape through excavations? A better-known “crown” site in the Salo area is Viitankruunu, whose route to the ancient graves begins alongside the road leading to Teijo.
The map at Koivumäki illustrates in an interesting way where the sea once used to lap at the shore, and how burial sites like this were often established right at its edge. As the land has risen over time, some of these sites have ended up quite far inland, as is the case with this site at Koivumäki.
“The Koivumäki cairn is a typical prehistoric burial cairn. The custom of burying the dead in stone cairns was adopted along the southwestern coastal region in the early Bronze Age (approx. 1500–500 BCE). It most likely arrived with Scandinavian settlers, since counterparts to the structures found in the oldest cairns are known from Sweden.”
Excerpt from the Koivumäki information sign (translated from Finnish)
The information sign also paints a picture of what the site would have looked like when this burial cairn was built. A location high on a rocky outcrop is typical for Bronze Age cairns, and perhaps at one time there was a view from the rock toward the Muurlanjoki river — now hidden by forest. It’s also considered possible that the population’s settlement was located below the rock on the riverbank, since traces of habitation have been found there.
But does the cairn actually contain any remains?
“The Koivumäki cairn was investigated in 1888 (Theodor Schwindt). The investigation found no structures or signs of burial. Since no burned bones were found, it’s possible that a body burial was made in the cairn and the remains decomposed entirely. In that case, the deceased would not have been given grave goods made from materials that survive to the present day. The grave may also have been robbed.”
Excerpt from the information sign (translated from Finnish)
There’s no campfire site here, and fires aren’t allowed, but I could easily believe this to be the most wonderful hidden spot to retreat to during autumn foliage season for some rest — maybe pack a thermos of tea and bring a good friend along too. I can imagine how beautiful the view would be with the oak and maples glowing in their autumn colors against a blue autumn sky, or what the place would look like in the light of a full moon.
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