Heishala in Rovaniemi: A Traditional Riverside Sauna Experience in Lapland
Article by Laura Hokka
When I arrived at Heishala, I had no idea that I was about to enjoy one of the most relaxing and beautiful sauna experiences. Nestled along the banks of the Kemijoki River—just a few kilometers from the heart of Rovaniemi—a small, beautifully crafted wood-fired sauna stood in the yard of a private home, as if quietly inviting me to leave the hustle of daily life behind. I could feel my blood pressure drop the moment I stepped onto the property.
Heishala is a serene riverside space that offers yoga and sauna sessions, inviting visitors to pause and breathe alongside one of Lapland’s grandest rivers. All yoga and sauna experiences must be booked and paid for in advance (link at the end of the article).
This sauna experience was nothing like a spa steam room or even a typical Finnish electric sauna, which is a common feature in many Finnish homes. This was the original, wood-fired, electricity-free, authentic Finnish sauna. A journey into peace, silence, and the very heart of Finnish life. And thanks to its northern location, visitors may be lucky enough to witness the Northern Lights in winter or the dreamlike brightness of the Midnight Sun in summer.
An Authentic Finnish Sauna with No Electricity or Running Water
The Heishala sauna was a complete experience—an immersion into the very essence of Finnish sauna tradition. Everything was done in the old-fashioned way: hot water came from a large kettle heated over a wood stove, and cold water had been brought inside the sauna for us. All we had to do was mix the two in a basin using a ladle until the temperature felt just right.
As the warm water streamed over my skin, I could feel the stress of everyday life simply wash away. There was only this moment, gentle warmth, and the comforting scent of wood and steam.
A Cozy Sauna and Changing Room
The sauna building consisted of two rooms: a small changing room and the sauna itself. In the changing room, I found a crackling fireplace, the soft glow of candles, and a selection of refreshments. Drinking water was provided—as it’s important to stay hydrated during sauna bathing—and the entire space radiated calm and care. The atmosphere felt just like a lakeside cottage sauna in the countryside, even though I was only minutes from the city center.
Inside the sauna, the steam rose gently, creating a soft, soothing heat. The wide benches were perfect for stretching out and truly relaxing, and a linen seat cover added extra comfort. Natural soaps and shampoos were provided, and towels were available for rent if needed. I was also given a pair of slippers to wear outside—which came in handy for what awaited just across the road.
Ice Swimming by Candlelight – An Unforgettable Dip in the Kemijoki
Just across the quiet country road was the ice hole—or avanto, as we say in Finnish. A set of wooden steps led me down to the riverbank, beautifully lit by soft lights. On the pier, a lantern glowed warmly, its candlelight flickering across the snowy landscape. Wide steps descended safely into the water. When I lowered myself into the freezing cold river, my whole body came alive—and at the same time, my mind became completely still. It was a moment of pure breath and silence. The Kemijoki flowed dark and strong—icy cold and yet deeply comforting.
A Snowy Garden and a Terrace for Cooling Off
Between rounds in the sauna and the ice-cold dip, I took a break on the terrace’s lounge chair. The small, beautifully kept garden was now wrapped in its winter blanket, branches heavy with snow, and the air filled with a peaceful hush. Cooling off in the crisp air was the perfect way to round out the sauna session. It felt like time had come to a gentle standstill.
A Sauna Like Visiting a Finnish Friend
The Heishala sauna sits in a private yard, and the atmosphere made me feel as though I had been welcomed into a Finnish friend’s home. The experience was intimate and lovingly curated—and for that reason, it left a lasting impression. If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing a real Finnish sauna, this is exactly the place for it.
I wholeheartedly recommend booking this sauna if you’re visiting Rovaniemi or simply seeking a quiet moment in nature. It’s not just a sauna—it’s an experience that connects body and mind, nature and humanity.
For more information and reservations: www.heishala.fi
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